My West African Hair

2012 resumption

2011-12-24T12:46:00.000-08:00

I've really sucked at blogging. I moved back to Nigeria and got lazy. Moved back to the US for graduate school and got busy.

My hair has made some progress but it was in and out of braids for almost a year and I think that set me back a little bit. But I look at old pictures as cringe at how messed up my hair got. Thank God for progress.

I have decided to resume blogging about my hair journey to having healthy, long relaxed 4B Nigerian hair.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Pet Peeves

2010-10-22T10:49:00.000-07:00

When the model on the package of a black hair product for real hair care (rather than weave care) has Brazilian or even worse, synthetic weave on... of course my hair will never look like that.

Argh!!!!

sorry

2010-10-06T12:20:00.000-07:00

will be back soon

In Nigeria

2010-08-23T14:17:00.001-07:00

Howdie!

I've been in Nigeria for two weeks now and my hair hasn't been getting much love but insults due to its 'quality decline.' I decided to get a big chop trimming up to 4inches so my hair is 'bob' lenght. Now that most of the bleached out brown strands are gone, I can focus on working with the 'good' hair that is left.

Last week, I did a protein treatment with Aphogee two-step conditioner and spraying CHI keratin mist for extra protein after moisturizing.

I've gotten my shea butter supply so I'll be steaming with shea butter this weekend.

:)

Rinses

2010-08-18T18:51:00.000-07:00

This post inspired me. Ok, not really but its amazing the multiple ways one can add fabulousness to their hair: shampoo, conditioners, oils, pre-poos, leavings, and now rinses???

http://relaxedhairhealth.blogspot.com/2010/06/six-ways-to-rinse-your-way-to-healthier.html

I think I'll try the apple cider rinse and the tea rinse. I already cold water rinse to close up my cuticles.

Apple Cider rinse: 'ACV helps to clarify the hair and remove build up. Because of it's low pH levels, ACV helps seal the cuticle layer locking in the moisture and protein from your deep conditioner. Make sure to dilute apple cider in water before applying to hair and scalp. It can be a bit strong if left undiluted.' This is also good for fixing porous hair.

The Tea rinse: 'This step consists of pouring herbal tea over the hair and scalp just after the wash. Once applied, you can then proceed to the deep conditioning step and rinse both the tea and the conditioner out at once. You can also opt to rinse with tea after deep conditioning as the final step to your wash... This positively impact the health of your scalp and minimize shedding. This type of rinse is safe enough to do weekly. If you find it to be too drying on the hair, then you can alternate to every other wash or as needed.'

Ladi

2010-08-08T11:57:00.000-07:00

Quiz: How Healthy Is Your Hair?

My Result:

Moderately Damaged

Without extreme vigilance, it's hard to completely avoid damage, so don't fret. Follow these simple steps to easily rehabilitate your hair.

Step 1: Trim hair every six to eight weeks to remove split ends, and only shampoo when necessary. (Unless hair is extremely oily, you don't need to shampoo daily.) Nelson Chan, owner of Nelson J salon in Beverly Hills, Calif., recommends regularly using a leave-in conditioner: "For fine hair, choose a spray leave-in that's lightweight and contains protein. Thick hair needs one that contains hydrating ingredients like shea butter or plant oils, usually in a light cream form."

Step 2: When exposed to sun or heat-styling tools, avoid further damage or dryness by using a heat-protectant spray or cream, advises Kaz Amor, co-owner of Warren-Tricomi Salon in Los Angeles. Amor also suggests using styling tools that have heat control dials so that you can regulate the level of heat applied to your hair. "Curly, coarse hair can handle higher temperatures because it has more layers of cuticle," says Amor.

Step 3: Pamper hair by deep conditioning monthly and opting for a paddle brush instead of a hard bristle brush. Oh, and avoid rubbing hair dry with a towel, advises Chan. Pat hair dry instead.

I created my regimen before this quiz and thank goodness, I am on track. I wash my hair once a week (on the weekends) and co-wash midweek. I incorporated a leave-in conditioner, heat protectants, and natural oils into my regimen so my 'moderately damaged' hair is moving in the right direction...

Product lingo

2010-08-02T11:36:00.000-07:00

I found this online yesterday and though to share. Its quite useful.

■Acidifier - A pH balance of 2.5 to 3.5 is what qualifies a hair conditioner as an acidifier. This acid will flatten the cuticle layer of the hair, resulting in beautiful shiny, bouncy hair. This conditioner is great for people with fine textured hair.http://www.salonweb.com/pro/conditioner.htm#acid8

■Detangler - This is an acidifier conditioner. The acid flattened the cuticle of the hair shaft. Some detanglers work instantly, others take several minutes before they complete the transformation that allow hair to untangle during combing.http://www.salonweb.com/pro/conditioner.htm#detangle9

■Glosser - When you use a glosser, it is mainly just to make the hair shinier. Most of them very light-weight oils, made from silicone. Glossers also help to control the "frizzies."

■Moisturizer -A moisturizing shampoo is filled with humectant compounds that attract and trap moisture.http://www.salonweb.com/pro/conditioner.htm#moist10

■E.F.A. - Permanent relaxers, hair coloring, and other chemicals can cause hair to be dry and brittle. An E.F.A conditioner is made to mimic sebum, an oil produced naturally by the scalp.http://www.salonweb.com/pro/conditioner.htm#efa11

■Re-constructor - Hydrolyzed human hair protein has 19 amino acids. The protein is lightweight and it penetrates the cortex and strengthens the hair.http://www.salonweb.com/pro/conditioner.htm#recon12

■Thermal Protection - If your hair suffers from heat damage, a thermal conditioner will offer a layer of protection. Blow drying, a hot curling iron and time in the sun can cause damage to your hair. Protect your hair with thermal hair conditioners.http://www.salonweb.com/pro/conditioner.htm#thermal13

http://www.mahalo.com/hair-conditioner

My hair is semi-porous

2010-07-29T18:00:00.000-07:00

Today, I found that my hair is 'semi' porous. Porous hair is not GOOD HAIR because it does not absorb any of the food you feed your hair. Its like pouring products which money in the sink (conditioners, oils, leave-ins and moisturizers). Kai!!!!!

To test porosity: put a strand or few of your hair in a bowl of water. If it floats, then your hair is fine. If it sinks then you're in porous-ville.

Mine sunk midway. In fact, I did the test multiple times. My hair is indeed not close to being perfect. Tscheww!

I'm off to Sally's to buy Roux Porosity Shampoo, will alternate using it with my Organix Coconut shampoo. Rinsing with Apple Cider Vinegar (mixed with water) also helps with porosity.

More porous news: http://www.hairliciousinc.com/2008/03/porous-hair-anyone.html

Ladi

My oils

2010-07-25T17:31:00.000-07:00

Since I started this healthy relaxed hair journey, I've picked up the following oils and added to my regimen:

Olive (I add this to my conditioner and mix with coconut oil for a hot oil treatment),

Castor (its thick and smells like newspaper. I use the Jamaican Black Castor oil on my scalp to thicken my new growth and I use the cold pressed plain Home Health Castor in my deep conditioner). Its a humectant too.

Coconut ( This is solid but melts fast. I love the smell of coconut. This is definitely my fav. I add this to my conditioner and use for hot oil treatments and for my ends after moisturizing).

Each of these are either cold-pressed, organic, or extra virgin just to ensure that I'm getting the best out of the oils. I've replaced the usual 9ja hair grease by applying natural oils on my scalp instead. I seal my ends with oil after applying moisturizer. Most importantly, I use oils in my deep conditioner and prepoo (hot oil treatment when my hair is dry).

I'm looking forward to using shea butter and other fulani treatments when I get home.

My New Product list

2010-07-20T17:20:00.000-07:00

This weekend, I went to Target and decided it would be best for my hair to stick to one or two or three product lines as opposed to the six-seven I had for one regimen.

For the next few months, I will be using Organix shampoo, it is coconut, has protein, and no sulphate. I got the silk infusion leave-in product (CHI is too expensive) and I decided to just get the conditioner as well. I'll start this line once I get to Nigeria in a few weeks. My sister uses Organix so I'm familiar with the brand. It boasts repair for chemically treated hair (us relaxed guys) and I've been looking to incorporating a mild protein product into my regimen.

I also bought Neutrogena's Triple Mpisture Leave-in conditioner like I said I would. I will get the deep conditioner too.

I will use this with my Strength of Nature moisturizer/ Herbal Essences Split end repair/ Wave Nouveau and castor oil on scalp. So my product junkiness is reducing. I have to be faithful to just a few product lines.

Until then, I'm trying to use up by bottles of shampoo and conditioner and transfer my oils into smaller bottles for easy transportation across the Atlantic.

I'm moving to 9ja in a few weeks!

http://westafricanhair.blogspot.com/2010/07/my-products-list-mostly-cheap-and.html

Best Drugstore Conditioners

2010-07-16T20:22:00.000-07:00

Since many of us are on a budget. Here's a list of the best drustore conditioners (aka Walmart, Walgreens, CVS conditioners):
http://www.totalbeauty.com/content/gallery/p-best-drugstore-conditioners/

I'll definitely or most like try the following:

No. 4: Neutrogena Triple Moisture Daily Deep Conditioner, $4.99

I love love Neutrogena Triple Moisture's other Deep Conditioner.

No. 6: Pantene Relaxed & Natural Intensive Moisturizing Conditioner, $5.99

I used to use this though it was when I was in Nigeria and since I quit the shampoo (for containing sulphate), I quit the twin too for no reason but maybe I can repent and go back.

No. 11: Suave Professionals Humectant Conditioner, $3.29

I almost bought this but in my upgraded mind, I could not touch Suave products for being cheap. But this is good so will probably try it mixed with some natural oils and honey to make a deep conditioner or a pre-poo concoction.

TGIF, I'm going shopping tomorrow to stock up on new hair products.

Weekend hair regimen

2010-07-14T19:40:00.000-07:00

This is my typical Saturday night/ Sunday morning regimen. You'd find a similar regimen on every other hair blog but this I modified to fit my laziness level.

1. pre-poo with coconut oil and cover with plastic or heating cap and then towel (will steam in the future) and run errands: vacuuming/ sweeping, laundry and cooking or just go to sleep, the longer the better. Coconut oil, like olive and avocado get easily absorbed into hair shaft more than other natural oils. Sometimes I do a hot oil treatment inplace of pre-poos.

2. shampoo wash (I co-wash midweek to add moisture),

3. deep condition under heating cap for an hour and workout or watch tv to kill time (I don't have a hood dryer or steamer here...they're too bulky, but I will deep condition in a salon when I get to Nigeria),

4. apply leave-in conditioner and detangle with wide tooth comb.

5. air dry (usually overnight if staying in or blow dry and style), flat iron if necessary (with heat protectant).

6. moisturize hair strands (and do so every day or two), focusing on the dryer and older ends

7. lightly apply castor oil on scalp, and seal ends with little coconut oil.

8. Pony tail or bun (not with a rubber band which can cause breakage and reduce length)

9. wrap under a satin or silk scarf or bonnet or use a silk pillow to sleep. The friction with cotton drys out hair and causes breakage by absorbing moisture from the hair. I used to wake up with my hair all over my pillow instead of my head.

This is very different from my old regimen which consisted of washing with sulphate-filled shampoo, maybe cheap conditioning for 5mins, blow drying without heat protectant, and applying hair grease or pink oil (mineral oils and petrolatum are evil, take note!). BAD BAD BAD!!!!

This what what most naija hairdressers do esp in N200 salons (yea, now you know who messed up your hair), so educate yourself. Cheap comes with an expensive price tag.

I relaxed my hair last weekend so this weekend, I conditioned with Aphogee two-step which is protein packed and helps to strenghten the hair after weakening by the creamy crack.

I air dried on while watching tv, and styled on Monday morning with no heat (reducing my flat ironing to twice a month instead of every week).

On tuesday night, my scalp was so dry and dandruffy so I washed my haired with shampoo again and deep conditioned with ORS Hair Mayo mixed with castor and coconut oil, left under a heating cap ($3 foil looking shower cap at Sallys, nothing fancy) and covered with my towel. I rinsed two hours later and did the usual. Its now in a bun.

Payday is here so will shop over the weekend for a few more hair products to experiment with.

Basic Ingredients I avoid in products:

2010-07-12T14:43:00.000-07:00

This is a really basic 101 list. For starters here's what you should avoid:

Sulphate in shampoo (because it strips hair of moisture), unless of course your conditioner is a super hero and can replace all the lost mositure. If you cannot trash you sulphate carrying shampoo, I suggest a goo pre-poo before the wash.

Mineral Oil/ paraffinum and Petrolatum (aka Vaseline-ish) in deep conditioners and moisturisers because this just creates an illusion of moistuised hair but it blocks and coats and adds nothing positive to the hair.

...-Paraben (s), this one is last on my list, I try to avoid it but can't always. Apparently its like MSG for hair. Google it!

Most organic and natural hair products (Burt bees, Giovanni, Carol's Daughter etc) have non of these ingredients but its always good to check to make sure you hair isn't getting crap.

Best Leave-In Conditioners (8)

2010-07-08T07:54:00.000-07:00

This list of 8 leave-ins is from Totalbeauty which I love for reviews on beauty products, hair, body, and makeup etc. Leave-in conditioners are vital for infusing moisture into hair after washing and rinsing hair. They also help detangling (during which often hair breaks) and make hair very soft. I never used Leave-in until a few months ago, and sinners better repent and buy them some leave-in conditioner.

http://www.totalbeauty.com/content/gallery/best-leave-in-conditioner
Out of this list I will most likely try (according to rank on the list). You can also click on them to get more reviews from users on Total beauty's website:

No. 1: Redken Smooth Down Detangling Cream Leave-In Smoother, $13.60

This was no. 1 so I'll try this when the paycheck gets here cuz $13.6 is 'wayyyy' above my leave-in budget. This chic (click the link) uses a Redken Smoothdown product so hmmmm...

No. 3: Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-In Cream, $6.99

I have used the deep conditioner from Neutrogena's Triple Moisture line and it was awesome so I'm convinced the leave-in will be as good. Plus it is within budget.

No. 6: Giovanni Direct Leave-In Conditioner, $7.99

Well, Its organic and full of natural stuff, I loved Giovanni's conditioner (not the shampoo though). I've seen this product on a lot of black hair websites so I might give it a try on day. Its within the budget too :)

And I will update my blog with reviews after trying any of these products.

The leave-in conditioners that I used in the past include Garnier (its alright but too thick and I tended to apply too much which dried and flaked off) and Sexy Hair Organics (which was awesome, organic without 'bad' chemicals and mad my hair soft and easy to detangle).

My products list: Mostly cheap and affordable stuff

2010-07-06T08:47:00.000-07:00

shampoo: Creme of nature organic moisturising shampoo (will switch to maybe Carol's daughter once the bottle finishes cuz this has sulphate in it)

conditioners:
Herbal Essences Long term relationship which is awesome for co-washes (I'm looking to switch to back to pricier Giovanni Smooth as Silk which smells fruity, grapey, and has very light protein which is good for my weak hair)

Aphogee 2-step- I use this a week after relaxing and then every six weeks. This is super heavy protein and should not be used often if not, your hair will harden and break. Plus is smells eggy and application is messy. Google it!

deep conditioner:
Organic Root Stimulator Hair Mayo (light to medium protein based)- I always add at least 2 tablespoons of coconut oil and one of olive oil to it for extra oomph. I leave this in for at least one or two hours in a heating cap (not under a steamer or dryer because I don't have the money or space for one). I usually deep condition after a shampoo-wash.

Neutogena triple moisture (moisture-based)- I also add coconut oil to this. It already contains almond and olive oil so I add jara oyel to it. Love this!

home-made deep conditioner- I've only done this once but I blend avocado, mayonnaise, olive oil, and honey together. Its natural and of course its good for you. Honey is a humectant and attracts moisture into your hair.

It is important to alternate between moisturizing and protein based deep conditioners because hair needs both.

leave-in conditioner:
Garnier fructis (I only got cuz it was the only cheap one available in walmart) but will switch back to Sexy Hair Organics (which used to make my hair very soft and easy to detangle until it finished and I could not find it anywhere near my village univ). Garnier is way too thick so I end up using too much and then it dries and flakes like dandruff. So less is more with this product but I'm switching regardless.

moisturiser:
Wave Nouveau Finishing Lotion (chei, it makes my hair soft eh). Must buy a year's supply before moving back to Nigeria. It is amazing. A friend suggested keracare so will try that soon.

oil-based moisturizer:
Mega Growth/ Strength of Nature's Provectiv Lotion (yellow bottle with the weave wearing model). Its a whole bunch of awesome natural oils and has a nice scent/smell. Pretty much a better version of the famous 'pink oil' that is packed with mineral oil that is not great for your hair. This gives moisture, shine and heat protection.

oils:
Extra virgin coconut (Nutiva), Jamaican black castor, and normal cold pressed castor oils, and extra virgin olive oil. I'm not a product junkie so will no invest in too many oils. 3 is enough. Will try shea butter when I'm in Nigeria though.

heat protectant: CHI 44 Iron Guard

relaxer: Motions (the new one) it has nice 'extras' in the kit. But in the past, I used Soft Sheen Carson's Anti-breakage relaxer (the red box one).

Creme of Nature, Herbal Essences, ORS Hair Mayo, and Aphogee step1

Aphogee step2, Garnier, Wave Nouveau, and Profectiv Lotion

I got all of these from Walmart, Sally's Beauty Supply and Amazon (coconut and castor oil). They are all affordable and have been working wonders on my hair so far.

This list will probably change as I run out of one bottle, I'd look for a better product or a more expensive one (as the paycheck comes in).

But once I am back Nigeria and there's no Sally's, Walmart, or convenient Internet shopping, I'd have to find local replacements or just 'import.'

Wish list (based on reviews from West African Hair carriers):
CHI Silk Infusion-expensive$$$*
KERACARE Conditioning Hairdress- medium$$
GIOVANNI Smooth as Silk Conditioner- medium$$
ROUX Porosity Shampoo-cheap$
CAROL'S DAUGHTER shampoo and hair milk- expensive$$$

*based on my intern salary

Hair Regimen terms

2010-07-01T11:37:00.000-07:00

Since I adopted these, my hair improved A LOT. Oya, here's the lingo:

Pre-poo (pre-shampoo): Which is what I apply to my hair before shampooing inorder to infuse moisture that might be lost from washing. I use saturate the hair with coconut oil, olive oil or/and a cheap conditioner and leave it overnight or at least some hours before washing my hair.

Co-wash: This is washing the hair with conditioner rather than shampoo. I use basic cheap conditioner for this. Sauve, Herbal Essences, Dove are all good for this.

Leave-in: Duh, A lotion or liquid you apply to hair after rinsing out the conditioner. DO NOT rinse like the name suggests, leave it in. This makes my hair soooo soft and makes detangling easy.

Sealing: This is locking in moisture by applying a natural oil over moisturized strands. I use coconut or/and castor oils to seal. castor oil is a humectant and absorbs moisture from the air into your hair especially in the summer (or so I heard).

Stretching: This is prolonging the time from one relaxer to another. Stretching hair is when you hair is 'due' (like Nigerians say) but you refuse to relax just yet. Its important to keep the new growth moisturised because new natural curly growth and the relaxed lenght are sworn enemies and hair break at that point if not properly moisturized. I stretch for up to 2-3months depending on the undergrowth or till I cannot comb it anymore. The fewer relaxers per year, the better abi?

Dusting: Is DIY trimming that involves trimming less than an inch of the dry ends of hair to prevent spilt ends. It does not dramitically affect the lenght of one's hair. I usually do this when I'm bored with a pair of barbers scissors. DO NOT use paper scissors only scissors made for hair.

Here is a GREAT guide for the major Hair lingo you'll find in most hair blogs: http://www.hairliciousinc.com/2008/08/faq-popular-hair-lingo.html

Story Story

2010-06-29T15:59:00.000-07:00

So my hair has been naturally full and long (Nigerian definition of long), for genes sake, I'm from Gombe, Northern Nigeria (not like all of us have long hair oh, but yea, the fulani thing) but in 2009, my hair went downhill after 3 years of carelessness, laziness, and ignorance.

I had short hair in secondary school so the barber was my only source of hair advice and washing and combing 1 inch of hair lenght was a breeze. After graduation, it gradually grew back but once it hit 'long' levels I could no longer manage it. My friend even called me a runaway slave. haha, i'm pretty carefree plus with lack of black people in my school, I had NO one to look fine for, Oyibo kids just think I'm a hippie (not a hot mess).

(My hair at its peak in Dec, 2008. Right after this, it just spiraled downhill)

So my hair was lacking moisture and only surviving on genetic gifts, nothing more. Last year (April, 2009), I relaxed my hair (which I do myself usually) and rinsed it out too early. I STUPIDLY re-relaxed the hair AGAIN (I know, EVIL and FOOLISH) and it was bone-laxed. This chemical overload was the tip of the ice-berg. My hair exploded from there. Eventually by end of summer, it became split-endville, was breaking like crazy. I had to cut off almost 5 inches as the salon lady (in Nigeria) was begging me not to. I've got a couple more inches off since then and now I just 'dust' the ends and focusing on some major length boosting. Since then, I have become more intelligent.

And then the film GOOD HAIR came out, Tyra show and blogs all started talking about hair: quitting weaves, trashing relaxers, and going natural. My hair is also VERY full, so being natural has been ruled out of the equation (for now) so when the whole hair craze started, my response was seeking a regimen that would revive my dead hair without having to go natural. Healthy relaxed hair. Please I am a Tangale girl, Nigerian to the bone, as black and African as they come so having nappy hair will NOT bring me closer to my roots neither will straight relaxed hair de-Africanize me.

Anyway, my sister just went natural and like most natural sistas, she spent everyday of Christmas break reading and lecturing me transitions, the big chop, natural oils, detangling combs, organic hair products, the devil called hair chemicals, mineral oils, sulphate etc. So I got hooked on the hair care thing.

My hair when I was a kid was GOOD: natural and healthy but I had a bevy of combers and plaiters who could do it for me unlike now that I don grow finish, I cannot manage natural hair especially when I am on my own with no money for a salon visit in America!

(One day, 1991)

My guilt for refusing to dump relaxers made me go on a mission to get my hot mess of a mane together, strong, long again, minus the split ends, porosity, and dryness. So my old regimen consisted of only washing the hair and blow drying. My frugality then did not allow me look at the 'conditioner' aisle. really? I know! I also used grease to keep it shiny (not as much as 9ja hair dressers sha.... those women can GREASE and fry hair eh). I quit the cheap shampoos, bought Extra Virgin Coconut oil, Olive oil and Castor oils (both white and Jamaican black), leave-ins, moisturizer, and heat protectant as well as sleep with my hair under a satin bonnet.

Now, I'm in the labor force (yikes), I have been forced to take hair care and appearance seriously. I flat ironed my hair myself FOR THE FIRST TIME two weeks ago and slowly perfecting the art thanks to online tutorial from other regular folk.
So far the hair is growing again, the spilt ends have been depopulated but not completely, the hair is getting moisture and not breaking due to dryness. I'm aiming at more thick growth, fixing the porosity, and making it stronger and longer.

(The hair now June, 2010. Clearly, there are fewer strands, the ends are thinner, but thank God, its growing)

Conclusion, I am not a hair expert, I'm still a student of hair issues and learning so this blog is about me, my relaxed hair, and my two cents on regimens, products and other random hair stuff.

ps. natural chics no hating pls..., love your relaxed neighbour, thanks ;) And pls no Akata-Oyibo straight hair yarns, methinks that is an irrelevant topic on a West African hair blog. In my Northern Nigerian culture long hair is valued hence the reason behind my goals.